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Reinventing shoes — footwear experiment

Extensive project that brought together five renowned designers and architects to create state-of-the-art x wearable footwear structures. Wearable art pieces meet cutting edge technology.
 
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Design brief
The designers received specifications with limitations. We educated them on the technologies at play and of past projects that informed the relevant limitations, with fitting guidelines as extra resources.
 
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Ben Van Berkel

Elevated design inspired by innovative architectural structures. The shoe featured unusual forms protruding from the front of the design, and consisted of three printed parts that were clicked onto the hard wedge from front to back.
Learn more about its development at UN Studio website.
 
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Concept development
Our team’s job was to ensure the shoe’s comfortable wear and to guide the designers through using new technologies during the creation process. Each shoe was specially packaged for elevated transportation to the exhibition.
 
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Visuals
We produced several closeup renderings for the press to later use to deeper showcase our concepts and forms behind the creation.
 
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Zaha Hadid

Fluid, wild and exaggerated shapes that reflected Zaha’s bold architectural ethos. The result was an elegant x fierce open pump with a polished black inner wedge.
 
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Concept development
We tested several color schemes for both the upper and polished inner wedge. A sleek polished black inside and modern matte black outside were the winners.
 
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Geometry
Volumes were tested multiple times for precision and performance before print. We placed a small fastening clip on the outside of the shoe for optimized assembly.
 
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Ross Lovegrove

Ross’s incredible sensitivity for sensual, softly curved objects resulted in a lightweight, sheer design. Intricate detailing, flexible upper wraps and verticality were key highlights. Parametric modeling was used to generate the shape.
 
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Parametric geometry
The upper featured an outer part with vertical running lines connected by diagonal lines on the inside for necessary flexibility. The inside wedge design had intricate detailing.
 
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Details
A leather insert with the artist’s name was placed in a special lock at the top of the shaft.
 
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Fernando Romero

Close to nature, Fernando’s red design was inspired by the color and essence of coral reefs. Parametric modeling was used to achieve eye-catching volume with intricate detailing.
 
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Volumes
Natural shapes were reflected in every aspect of the design. The hard wedge featured several interconnected shapes for improved structural strength. Despite its unusual outer silhouette, the inner footbed and ankle instep also provided support for the foot.
 
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Michael Young

Michael’s abstract forms were inspired by his earlier works. His experimental taste was reflected in the shoe’s unexpected proportions that created a satisfying tension. Learn more about the project at Michael Young Studio.
 
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Forms
His technical and unexpected approach was echoed in every intricate detail of the shoe design.
 
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Lamels
Flexible lamels that gradually twist around the foot were the main visible element. They were designed in a way that perfectly fit into the shoe’s hard shape.
 
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CMF and production
Coloring and finishes were decided closely with each particular design team. Flexible TPU parts from the 3D printer were made with a grain that was difficult to polish. For painting we used a durable dip coloring method that soaked deep into the rubber of the shoe. Other hand painted Nylon parts were finished as desired — polished or sandblasted and then spray painted. All of the shoes were printed with the sponsorship and help of 3DSystems.
 
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Debut
The exhibition took place during Salone del Mobile in the heart of Milan, Italy. Shoes were exhibited museum-style on locally crafted wooden stands with acetate coverings.
 
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Press
The merging together of these emblematic and respected names across design and architecture was met with tremendous success. The project received coverage throughout the most respected design and architecture media outlets.
 
 
Role
Project technical coordination, development, 3D art

Credits
Designers:
Ben Van Berkel
Fernando Romero
Michael Young
Ross Lovegrove
Zaha Hadid

3D systems:
Janne Kyttanen
Ping Fu
Maria Cichy

Creative direction, design lead — Rem D Koolhaas
Photography, art direction — Frankie Sun, Clement Balavoine
Marketing — Ilaria Capriglione, Federica Adamo