Footwear innovation
Various projects that explored production and prototyping techniques to create closed shoes and sandals with innovative materials. Many of these experiments inspired new products along the way or were turned into commercial products.
Silicone printed upper
Silicone print is basically a shallow mold where silicon is poured, and fabric is pressed over it. When the silicone cures, it maintains it’s texture.
Concept
Ideas were based on blackwork tattoos, and segmented/translucent trends from Alexander Wang or Gareth Pugh.
Proof of concept
The idea turned out to work well for simple sandals. Lasting the upper was no different than any other traditional material, and certain areas of the toe and ankle strap were lined for added strength.
Detailing
The upper details include groove-slots so that the upper could be sewn together without covering the design with stitches. A leather strap was added to the back of the heel, as well as a leather stripe on the front.
Commercial use
This technique was later used for a commercial line of slip-ons that was well received amongst younger audiences.
Sculpted birkenstock
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Prototyping
The last and a Birkenstock outsole was 3D scanned and used as a reference to build the strap in CAD. Ensuring the inner side of the strap shapes perfectly to the fit.
Injection mold
Several TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) densities were tested to find the perfect balance for comfort.
Colors
The slides were met with success, and customers asked for more color options.
Flip-flops
Combining classic flip-flops and the simple inspirations of Japanese Geta shoes This traditional concept created a bold flip-flop.
Strap widths
Several versions were prototyped, from thinner strap reffering to the classic flip-flops, to wider strap with more personality. Extra attachment pins had to be added to attach the strap firmly to the foam base.
Hybrid shoemaking
We combined Injection molded high heels that wrap and support the feet. We explored the intersection of shoemaking techniques and injection molding.
Concept development
In the concept phase, we explored several heel heights and new ways to wrap the injection molded unit around the feet. Once the height was perfected, the last was scanned in for precise fit.
Prototyping
Several rounds of FDM, SLS prints, and prototypes were made to inspect the aesthetics of the design. Prototypes were made for weartesting.
Final part
Adjustments were made based on the comments from supplier in the effort to achieve stability and comfort.
Production and colors
The heel formed a story for the shoe. Keeping the upper simple, the partially lined ankle strap was elastic, with a leather strap on the toe. The colors were selected from the color palette of the main collection.
Concept extension
Several concepts were developed to supplement the collection. The design broke the lines within the traditional shoe categories, and refreshed traditional shoemaking techniques with new concepts and material hybrids.
Role
Design
Credits
Creative direction, design lead — Rem D Koolhaas
Design
Credits
Creative direction, design lead — Rem D Koolhaas